Friday, 27 September 2013

Breaking With The Norm - Rick Owens SS14 In Yer Face! #PFW

"We're rejecting conventional beauty, creating our own beauty," Rick Owens told press yesterday after his #PFW SS14 show, which still has the fash-pack talking today.


Well because Owens chose to take the traditional notion of the size zero clotheshorse body type - which easily slides into his cultish collection of dark, edgy and beautifully structured garments across a muted or monochome palette - and flip that on its head entirely, championing and encouraging fuller-figured women on the catwalk.
He also addressed the on-going issue of racial diversity in the fashion industry, by putting black women back on the catwalk, something both Naomi Campbell and Iman will applaud, having recently launched the Diversity Coalition - a new initiative in collaboration with former model-agent-turned-campaigner Bethann Hardison, which aims to raise awareness of racism in fashion.

Owens SS14 collection not only celebrated diversity on the catwalk, but proved that his hardcore mix of signature drapery and wrapped leather and fabrics, with cut-out, pleats, slit and zip detailing, can be worn by all sizes, even the most robust bodies in motion.

Other designers should also take note of how to 'stage' a fashion week spectacle too, as Owens did away with the samey samey 'walk walk fashion baby and turn' routine, and chose instead to deliver a presentation which saw his models perform 'step dancing' - it's like a fusion of a New Zealand 'Hakka' meets a cheerleading-fest meets a military drill, all thrown into one. 
The reason why the models were so good at the moves, was probably due to the fact that they are all part of real 'stepping teams' in American Colleges - Washington Divas, Soul Steppers, Momentum and Zetas. And those aggressive facial expressions weren't just theatrics, the look is actually known as 'Grit Face', and is used as a way to scare the opposition - it's basically the same face the security guards pull at London Fashion Week every season.

Owens' SS14 show was full of raw energy and free spirit, and his vision of diversity is what fashion should be all about. 

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