Saturday, 21 May 2011

Mugler A/W 11/12: It's a Gaga Affair




So Nicola Formichetti's womenswear debut for French fashion house Mugler, seemed to be all about one model, Lady Gaga...oh, and some pretty kinky slinky creations too.
A long-time collaborator of the singer, Nicola has masterminded many of her most avant-garde outfits, including the one she wore for this year's Grammyperformance (you know, the one where she came in hibernation, then hatched out of her egg, as you do).
I viewed the A/W 2011/12 collection via the brand's Facebook page live stream tonight, which began with cameras showing different images of backstage, front of house and the frow as it filled up, with Terry Richardson and Anna Wintourand...er...if there were any other slebs, we didn't see them. But just before the show started, Gaga came into camera view with stylists putting the finishing touches to her outfit and hair, while she puffed on a fag (well, it was Paris and you know how they like to fumée!).
The collection was a mix of figure-hugging long floaty gowns and mini dresses, some with sheer panelling right where your boobs go *for that shock factor*, patent pencil skirts, latex trenches, bodices that looked to be made from plastic(?) and sculpted latex and leather - all set to a Gaga soundtrack, with remixes of "Born This Way" and a preview of "Government Hooker", another track from her much anticipated album. I particularly enjoyed SHOWStudio's overview of the collection (via Twitter),"Thirty first century disco alien prostitutes go touting for business in a disused monastery". What's not to like?!
Among the stream of sky-high wobbling models (thanks to some pretty scary but fantastic platform heels which almost caused one casualty at the start of the show) was Mugler muse Rick Genest (Zombie Boy), he of the skeletal body tattooes.
Overall, I don't think all of the pieces were 'wearable' (which was apparently one of the descriptions quoted in the pre-show notes) unless you're brave enough to go out sans bra or you're used to having cars pull up alongside you as you walk in the street...at night. But overall some of the collection did bring sexy back and also marked a return to the old aesthetic that Thierry Mugler himself installed in the brand, showmanship...bringing spectacle and theatre to the catwalk.
I also think it's fair to credit Gaga with helping to boost the profile of the brand this year, so it will be interesting to see how sales of the womenswear line go. But for now, well done Nicola! Put your paws up! (as Gaga would say).

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